Saturday, July 5, 2008

A Gem of Filipiniana on Padre Faura

When I was still living in the Philippines, it was my practice that whenever I walked into a bookstore in Manila, the first section I would visit was the store's Filipiniana section. It was there where I would go through the latest titles by both local and foreign authors to see if there were new book releases on topics of interest to me, specifically Philippine political and economic history and architecture.

My love affair with the "Filipiniana Section" dates back to my college days in Manila. The section was situated in one of the quietest areas within my college's library. It was in an area I often went to between classes to either take a much needed afternoon nap or to intensely study or prepare for an examination. It took me a while to realize that a few steps away from my favorite nap/study spot were shelves that had copies of respected and historic Philippine publications such as the Philippines Free Press, Weekly Graphic, and the Manila Times. The Philippines Free Press was an influential weekly news magazine that ran from 1907 until the declaration of Martial Law closed it down in September 1972.

From the moment I browsed through an old issue of the Philippines Free Press, I was hooked, to say the least, and I remember spending countless hours going through its past issues and those of other newspapers and magazines. I was quite fascinated by the fact that the school's collection of magazines and newspaper issues went as far back as the 1910s. Reading old news articles could be described as reading Philippine History in "current events" form.

Thus, my old geeky self was so glad when my dear SO finally took me to the Solidaridad Book Shop in Manila's Ermita district. This bookstore is owned by the renowned Filipino author and National Artist Francisco Sionil Jose. ("My Brother, My Executioner", "The Pretenders", "Ermita") Although I've heard of this place, I never had the chance to visit it until I was in Manila last May.

The first two pictures below show the front of the bookstore taken from across the street. (Store's exact address is 531 Padre Faura Street, Ermita, Manila.)



Solidaridad Book Shop opened its doors to the public back in 1965. As can be seen from above, the book shop occupies the ground floor of a two-storey building with a mezzanine. The building is a concrete and wooden structure and was of an architectural style that was common in Manila from the 1950s through the late 1960s.

The following two shots were taken by the bookstore's front door.



Due to Robinson Place's rather imposing presence across the street, one could easily walk past this bookstore without noticing it. But once found, stepping into the bookstore is like going back in time. This little shop possesses an old-fashioned charm with its simplicity and it reminded me of places in the Ermita and Malate districts I used to visit as a kid. An old family friend, now long gone, used to run a small barbershop a couple of blocks away near the Plaza Nuestra Senora de Guia while another family friend ran his family's construction firm from one of the old buildings that line T.M. Kalaw Street.

The bookstore's interior was basically divided into two sections. As one walks in, one will find the Filipiniana section to one's left while books by foreign authors and foreign periodicals can be found to one's right.

I found the staff to be very friendly and helpful. I heard that customers can even request Mr. Jose to sign a book if he was around. Unfortunately, we were not able to have any book signed because the author was in Japan on business at the time my SO and I went. Well, better luck next time.

Now if there was something that I did not like about this place, it was the fact that the store does not accept credit cards. All book purchases have to be paid for in cash. But given everything that this place has to offer, its refusal to accept credit cards is one inconvenience I can certainly live with.

We ended up buying two books that day. But I liked both the place and the selection of books so much that the SO and I came back the following day to buy two more. I must say then that of all the places I visited in Manila that week, this was clearly my favorite.

So to the Filipiniana buffs among you, whenever you find yourselves in the area, please take some time to stop by this little gem on Padre Faura. I don't think you'll come away disappointed.

Photo credits: The Quint

58 responses:

vernaloo said...

the thing I notice about stores like this is the customer service. I mean you go to FullyBooked or NBS, sure they will assist you but you seldom meet sales attendants who will give you that sincere smile. Perhaps it's because few people lang get to visit them.

mari-rose said...

my comment disappeared! :(

nyl said...

I have read Sionel Jose's "The Pretender"--a very well-written book indeed by a very good writer full of wit and intellect. Wow!I wish I could visit Solidaridad if given the opportunity to travel Manila. When I go malling, I use to stay longer at the National Bookstore reading inspirational books, but after this entry, I sure would want to visit SO too.;)

One time, I stood longer reading one book in the Nat'l bookstore. The salesgirl then, noticing that I was reading the book already for more than half an hour, reprimanded me about "the no reading policy"... haha!Engrossed with the book, I forgot the bookstore's rule!;)

rolly said...

I, too, enjoy the Filipiniana section before. I love looking at old pictures, of what things looked liked before and reading bits of history.

Haven't gone to that place yet. I am so far away.

madbong23 said...

hey mate, i used to go to solidaridad bookstore way back in the 80s as it is quite near my university. glad to know it's still there.

atticus said...

hindi ko napuntahan iyang lugar na iyan. pero nabasa ko ang ilan niyang libro.

but like nyl, i did manage to save money by reading books right off the shelf. mahal kasi.

what's sad is that sometimes, people who work in bookstores know nothing about what they sell. i like it when people know what they're selling. camera lens man iyan o libro. it's comforting when they know a lot.

ev said...

i love books but have not been much into reading for quite awhile.

BW said...

I love Pinoy authored books too and they're quite inexpensive esp if paperbound.

Never heard of this place before - it's great when an established author owns and runs a bookstore himself. Cash only basis is a drag though :(

gagitos said...

weh? kanya yun? I paid a visit with my uncle when I was 8-9 yrs old. And also, I love those smiles when we go there. Gusto ko sa kanya yung Po-on. Simple lang yung story pero tumatak sa utak ko ^^
-
wei

the donG said...

totoo talaga sinabi mo na hindi na ito napapansin dahil sa robinsons manila.

ilang beses na ako dumaan dyan pero hindi ko talaga napansin yan.

pupuntahan ko talaga yan.

Panaderos said...

Verns,

That may be true. I wonder how sales from a typical bookstore's (e.g. Powerbooks, FullyBooked, or National) Filipiniana section compares to the other sections? That would be interesting to find out and could possibly be an eye-opener.

Welcome back! :)

Panaderos said...

Mari,

How did it happen? Please give it another try.

Panaderos said...

Nyl,

I think you'll enjoy this place so yes, should you find yourself in Manila one of these days, do stop by and pay "homage" to the man. Hahaha I am currently reading his book "Ermita". It's a very good read so far.

I tend to get engrossed with books too whenever I hang out in a bookstore but so far, I haven't been reprimanded. Not yet, anyway. But there's always a first time. :D

Panaderos said...

Rolly,

I got my start too by looking at very old pictures. After that, I started getting very curious about things and I started reading through old magazines and newspapers just to obtain a lot more details about events, places, and people in our history.

Yeah, unfortunately, your place is a bit far from this store. Still, I hope you get the chance to stop by it should you find yourself in its vicinity one of these days.

Panaderos said...

Madbong23,

It's still there and still going strong, Pards. :)

Panaderos said...

Atticus,

In the Philippine context, it's a rarity these days to find a bookstore employee who also knows quite a bit about the books the store sells. Such an employee would be a great find.

Come to think of it, in all my years in Manila, not once have I come across a bookstore employee who was able to hold a discussion with me about a particular book. It's a bit sad but it's the truth.

In the US, based on my experience, it is quite common to hear a bookstore employee or bookstore cashier comment on a book I was buying. They sometimes recommend a an alternative or discuss a particular part of the story with you. It does make you feel good to have such a discussion with them. :)

Panaderos said...

Ev,

I'm not too far from you in that regard. My pace of reading has been quite slow lately. It often takes me months to finish a single book but that's ok. :)

Panaderos said...

BW,

It was my love who got me interested in his works. I brought back with me a couple of her F. Sionil Jose books.

Limiting their business to cash sales is quite a drag and I told the saleslady so myself. I asked her, jokingly, to ask Mr. Jose to consider accepting credit cards as payment. It's good for business I told her. Hehehe :)

Panaderos said...

Gagitos,

Basahin ko nga ang "Po-on" one of these days.

Maraming salamat sa pag-bisita. Much appreciated. :)

Panaderos said...

The Dong,

We're slowly but surely losing a lot of those small bookstores in favor of the big, corporate-controlled ones like Powerbooks and FullyBooked. Although both of these bookstores also have a decent Filipiniana collection, one can't help but have a once-you've-seen-one-you've-seen-them-all feeling after you've been to their stores.

Small bookstores, on the other hand, are niche players. You never know what you're going to find in them and that makes such places worth a visit.

Sana makatulong sa iyo itong mga litrato na isinama ko dito. Thanks, Pards. :)

Bambit said...

I didn't realize Solidaridad was still around. Thought they had moved or gone the way of small bookshops (remember Tom Hanks' powerbooks-like store causing Meg Ryan's small bookshop to close on You've Got Mail?) Good to know that the place is still alive, and happy that you were able to visit it.

Panaderos said...

Bambit,

I'm glad that I was able to pay this place a visit while I was in Manila. Mr. Jose is now in his mid 80s. I'm not so sure what would happen to this bookstore once he's no longer around.

Yes, this place does remind me of that movie. :)

Mari said...

glad you liked the quaint bookshop in faura.

i discovered it through a friend who wanted to give another friend an autographed book by fsj.

what i love about the bookstore is that they have a good collection of history books which are not available in the regular bookstores inside the mall. plus, the saleslady doesn't hover!

Photo Cache said...

back in college, the filipiniana section of our library was in the second floor and it too was a quiet place - especially when my barkada and i are not around. :)

Panaderos said...

Mari,

I liked that place a lot, thanks. :)

The saleslady was very nice, wasn't she? She pretty much left us alone. I'd love to come back to this place the next time I'm in Manila. :)

Panaderos said...

Photo Cache,

Hahaha Nasita ka ba ng librarian niyo? :D

I loved our library because it offered a very conducive place for napping, thanks to very good and new air-conditioning system at that time. Hehehe

Rudy said...

Haven't been to this bookstore in decades. I used to frequent the place and even bought a couple of books there as some titles were required reading back in college. I didn't realize it is still in operation. Man, you really did get around while you were here, ha? :-D

Panaderos said...

Rudy,

Pards, I made sure that I'd get to visit Rob Place while I was in Manila. I walked by some of the places you wrote about. I made sure that a few hours of each day was spent seeing places around Manila and Makati. :D

It was a fun trip and I'll definitely be back! Bwahahahaha!! :D

kero said...

although i work near padre faura, and have seen the store sign a couple of times, i haven't been inside the store.

since i enjoy going to bookstores, i'll include this stop on my next fieldtrip.

D@phn3 L@ur@ said...

I've actually seen this bookstore several times as it is located along the vicinity of Hizon where my sister and I would occasionally drop by for merienda.

prinsesamusang said...

it's cool that a lot of people still opt for the filipiniana. i guess, it's something we can all be proud of amidst everything else that's not so pretty going on.

BlogusVox said...

I've never been to that part of Manila, but this post and comments reminds of the movie "You got mail".

Meg Ryan is the owner of a family owned bookstore. She knows every book they are selling and treat every customer like family. Sadly, it has to close down because a bigger bookstore opened up in front of it. Tom Hanks, on the other hand, owns the big bookstore.

Well, you know the rest.

Panaderos said...

Kero,

Yes, give it a try. Plus the prices of the books are quite competitive with the big players. Plus, it may have a book or two that you may not find with the big chains. :)

Panaderos said...

Daphne,

Hizon? Thanks for mentioning it. I think I'll add that to my list of places to check out the next time I'm in Manila. :D

Panaderos said...

Prinsesamusang,

I believe that deep inside, a lot of Filipinos truly love their country. As such, a lot of people still love to learn more about their country and about themselves, outside of the stuff that was learned in classrooms.

Thanks for the visit. Much appreciated. :)

Panaderos said...

Blogusvox,

Oh yes, "You've Got Mail". How can I forget that movie. I even took a day off from work to see that movie. Once inside the theater, I noticed that I was the only guy in an audience size of about 40 people. Hehehe :D

monaco said...

Family-owned small businesses are a dying breed. They have been falling victim to the sprouting of mall and big businesses all around Metro Manila, even in the provinces.

I'm no Filipiniana buff but this is one bookstore to visit if only for F. Sionil Jose.

Panaderos said...

Mon,

Such business are a dying breed. It's getting late in the day too as far as Mr. Jose's life is concerned. Thus, I'm not sure what the bookstore's future is going to be. I hope for the sake of his memory that his children, if he has any, or some individuals who care enough would continue running this book shop.

dr_clairebear said...

are you in manila? i'm inggit. :P

i've always liked browsing in that shop...

Panaderos said...

Hi Claire,

Kumusta ka na? I hope everything's been well with you. I was in Manila last May. I was just there for a week. I'm back in the States na.

Yes, I did enjoy both of my visits to that store. Take care and best of luck there. :)

GODDESS said...

Hay, my sanctuary! mga bookstores, libraries, reader's nook and what not... favorite place in the whole world!

i love reading and at any given day, i'd rather read a book and immerse myself in learning than go clubbing. that's probably why i'm not popular with my new acquaintances here... hehehe! boring much??

anywayz, i'll make sure to visit that place when i go to the Philippines next year.

cheers!

luna miranda said...

i didn't know F. Sionil Jose owns a bookstore...that's wonderful! napapadpad lang ako sa manila area pag gabi na (hehe), but i hope to visit this bookstore one day. i have 3 of Sionil Jose's novels---Ermita, Three Filipino Women and Sin. he's a great writer!

Panaderos said...

Goddess,

Hindi ka nag-iisa! Hahaha Marami tayo na ginagamit na sanctuary ang mga bookstores.

You're not boring at all. That's perfectly alright. Although there's a time for everything, there's absolutely nothing wrong with broadening one's horizons through reading. You're fine. :)

Panaderos said...

Luna Miranda,

I'm actually reading Ermita right now and I have The Pretenders next in line. :)

He is indeed a great writer and a prolific one at that too. Even now that he's in his mid 80s, he's still at it. Galing!

prinsesamusang said...

i that is the problem.
it is deep inside.
waaaayyyy deeeeeep inside.
oh, i guess i'd be visiting more.
i added you to my links.
hehe.

lei said...

reminded me of william thacker's (hugh grant) bookstore in the movie notting hill. bihira lang ang pumapasok. :D

tambayan ko sa national bookstore ang filipiniana section. tinitingan ko lang din mga old pictures. kakatuwa e. minsan pa nga iniimagine ko sarili ko na nabubuhay sa panahon na ang kausutan ay baro't saya. ha ha!

i love reading din naman books about philippine history and culture sa library nga lang nung nag-aaral pa ko. ayoko lang nung subject kase kailangan pang imemorize ang mga dates!

maiba ko konti, alam mo na ba yung bagong panatang makabayan? nabasa ko lang sa isang blog. hindi ako aware na napalitan na pala. mas gusto ko pa din yung dati.

Toe said...

Oh, you would love the Filipiniana book collection that we have gathered which we donated to two libraries here in Cambodia... Nick Joaquin, Doreen Fernandez, Fernando Salanga... a lot of modern authors... it's a gem. We got a lot of out-of-print copies from authors and publishers themselves. I was so jealous at the libraries to which we donated the books to. :)

Panaderos said...

Prinsesamusang,

Thanks for the link-up. I'll do the same. :)

Panaderos said...

Lei,

Boring ang History classes if the teacher emphasizes memorization of dates and events. In my opinion, mas effective ang teaching ng History if students are asked to analyze how certain events came about in the context of that particular period.

Hindi ko alam na may bagong version na pala ng Panatang Makabayan. I don't know why we had to change the old one. I don't think there was anything wrong with its words. Pero ganyan naman sa atin eh. I've always had a problem with changing street names, town names, and now, the pledge. We lose a connection to our past by doing such things. Hay naku. :(

Panaderos said...

Toe,

Waaah!!! Bakit niyo pinamigay sa mga Cambodians iyon!?!?! Hahaha :D

Seriously, I love the works of Nick Joaquin. He's my favorite among the Filipino writers. I first came across his writings when he worked as a reporter for the Free Press.

That must be quite an impressive collection since you were able to obtain copies of out-of-print books and publications. I'd love to see those two places.

PERO BAKIT NIYO PA RIN PINAMIGAY SA MGA TAGA-CAMBODIA ANG MGA IYON!?!?! WAAAAAHHHH!!! :D

Jet said...

I love quaint little neighborhood book shops! I didn't know of a lot of those when we were still in the Phils. Hmmm.... dapat mabisita yan.

May tanong ako, sorry kung medyo no-brainer... heh. Ano'ng ibig sabihin ng SO? :)

Panaderos said...

Hi Jet,

Yes, when you get a chance, please do stop by the place the next time you and Jay are in Manila. I think you'll like it. I even joked with the SO as to why this store didn't sell Jay's book. How dare they? Hahaha :D

As to your question about SO, the letters stand for "Significant Other". (Naks! Ayos ba? Sosyal ba ang dating?? Hehehe)

Take care. :)

la-belladonna said...

I have been a die hard fan of F.Sionil's books...I'm a collector of the books included in his Rosales Saga...I've already read "The Pretenders", "Tree","My Brother, My Executioner"...

Actually, I've been dying to go to this place...I find it quite ironic that I am studying in UP-Manila and I'm taking some subjects at the College of Arts and Sciences which is located in P.Faura and yet I haven't been to this shop!!!

Panaderos said...

La-Belladonna,

I think you'll like it once you've been to it. Plus, I think we all need to support the continued viability and existence of small bookstores for otherwise, they will all end up closing shop and we will have nothing but the big, corporate-backed bookstores left.

la-belladonna said...

hey kuya, after I've commented on this post, I've gone to the shop the day after! weee! the lady was so accomodating...though sir Sionil Jose wasn't around, the lady allowed me to leave my books so the old man could sign them for me...I really love all the books they have there...I actually bought one for myself...Thanks for this blog post! You reminded me of and made me accomplish a thing I've been longing to do -- to visit this place!

Panaderos said...

La-Belladonna,

You're very welcome. I'm very glad that you loved the place and you loved the books there.

I'm glad you found this post very helpful. Take care. :)

myrza said...

May we ask permission to use your closeup photo of the Bookstore for a story called "50 Things to do in Manila" on Spot.ph? Of course we shall credit you properly. Thanks!
Myrza Sison
Editor-in-chief

Panaderos said...

Myrza,

Sure thing. My only condition is please let me know once the picture gets published on your site. Thanks and take care. :)